Digital Panoramas - Wider is Better
Back in the film days panorama images were done with fisheye or super-wide angle lenses. These images covered a wide (or tall) field of view, but at the expense of some unwanted distortion. We've all seen those bulging images from fisheye lenses.
Digital photography has changed the way we can record those scenic vistas or tall buildings. By taking a series of pictures either horizontally or vertically we can employ digital panorama software to stitch them together. No need to worry about how wide your lens is. Use whatever you have.
Advantages of Digital Panoramas
- You can use any digital camera. It's the software that does the magic.
- Some cameras come with the necessary software.
- Good digital panorama software can be had for about $30-40. Photoshop Elements and Photoshop CSx have it built in.
- No need to buy expensive super-wide angle lenses. You can use your standard lens to shoot panoramas.
- Minimal distortion in the final image.
- Your final image is many, many megapixels and can be printed BIG.
Digital Panoramas with your P&S
Many of the newer digital cameras have a Scene mode for Panoramas. As you shoot pictures they are tagged as number 1, 2, 3 etc. in order that your software can easily identify the order they go in. The LCD screen will display a faint partial image of the last picture you shot, along with a live view. This makes it easier for you to line up each consecutive image to ensure better stitching in the software.
After you download your pictures you simply select your group of shots for the panorama. Then select the Panorama stitch function and let the software do it's thing. It will shift and line up each consecutive image to create one long panorama picture. Simple!
I realize this is an overly simple explanation. Since there are so many panorama stitching softwares out there I can't be too precise. You'll need to read up on the exact method for your particular software.
Digital Panoramas with your DSLR
A superwide lens is not needed, and will actually create more problems for you when you try to stitch the images together. Something in the 18-35mm range is more suitable. It will allow enough height and width to get just about any subject. Consider turning your camera vertically in order to get more foreground in each shot.
Use a tripod for best results. Use Manual exposure for consistent colors through the series of pictures. Even though the software can (somewhat) correct exposure, it's best to get it right the first time. If your camera has a Grid option for the viewfinder (many Nikon's do) turn it on to help align the horizon.
It's also a good idea to swing through the scene before shooting. This will help ensure you keep the horizon straight and will give you mental stop points for each shot.
Digital Panorama Software
After using the Panorama function in Photoshop I was dissatisfied with the results. I went searching for another solution and stumbled upon Arcsoft Panorama Maker. For an inexpensive program it does a marvelous job. Very easy to use and the stitching is virtually flawless. They've recently introduced a Pro version that gives the user a lot of control over color, contrast, stitching points etc. I haven't tried it since the basic version (so far) has served my needs.
I've also used Panorama Factory and have even tried just overlaying images in Photoshop. I still keep coming back to Panorama Maker.
Printing Panorama pictures
Most of the Epson printers will accept their panorama paper. It's roughly 8.5 x 24 inches and works quite well. If your Photoshop skills are up to snuff, you can put 2 panorama images on a large standard print size (16x20 or 20x30 for example) and have the final image printed locally or online. For smaller prints, 4X10 is a standard panorama print size and a number of frames are readily available. Any local photo lab can turn out 4x10 prints.
If you print your own photos, then you have the option of making them any size you desire. Obviously, these odd sizes will likely require custom matting and framing.
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